Bologna
Smaller than Florence, but beautifully formed. I knew little about it before going.
The off the cuff impression from friends was food capital of Italy. Stanley Tucci on steroids. Nicknamed La Grassa (the fat one - the City, not Stanley, who is reprehensibly thin). Wave arrividerci to any recent healthy eating improvements.
The first-hand thumbnail is an Italian city boasting a lot more than nosh.